Dear Students,

We have already discussed in class the influences of World War I on fashion. I will be writing the salient points here so that you can go through these before your exams. It might also benefit other NIFT students and any other students or fashion history enthusiasts.

To begin with - First world war also know as the “GREAT WAR” lasted from 1914 -1918. 


The assassination of archduke Franz Ferdinand, heir to the Austro- Hungarian throne provided the spark for the war.

POLITICAL SENARIO- Major European powers confronted each other. Germany feared encirclement by hostile powers whereas other nations feared German domination of Europe.

Division of Europe –
TRIPLE ALLIANCE- Austria-hungry, Germany and Italy
TRIPLE ENTENTE- Russia, Britain and France


Before the war, if you remember the clothes were rather extravagant, but the war put an end to this extravagance. One way of looking at it is that -
  1. Women were now freed from the norms of the couturier and were free to design their wardrobes. 
  2. The recruitment of women for war - in factories and for nursing etc., spurred new demands in fashion. 
  3. The middle class women replaced their absent husbands and relatives in trade and industry. 
  4. Society life was almost suspended (more of mourning took over). Gone were the days of luxury and fancy tea parties.
This was a whole new beginning for women. This was a strong reason for women to change what they wore and more importantly to change the idea of what clothing should be. It became more practical and less fussy. The middle class influence became weaker, and thus the recently gone by 'Edwardian Era' suddenly became a bygone age, a time to remember fondly but not to embrace. The role of women in societies increased.

Changes in Women's fashion:
  1. Women discarded elaborate ornate toilettes for simpler styles
  2. Shortening of skirts for easy movement and practicality.
  3. Adoption of silk stockings as a symbol of luxury.
  4. low cut shoes
  5. Simpler undergarments - A new garment called brassier was introduced and gone were the elaborate corsets. An undergarment called 'Cami-knickers' became popular as skirts grew shorter. 
  6. Simpler hats and hairstyles.
  7. Designers - Paul Poiret and Fortuny (read up more)
Changes in Women's wear as a result of World War I
Tailored suits - distinctively military look for women became popular

Changes in Men's Fashion:
  1. Menswear had been more or less stabilised since the beginning of 19th Century. 
  2. The three piece suit dominated with more practical cuts, the uniforms played a very important role in designing the fashion for later years. 
  3. Men preferred the clean-shaven look as maintaining beards and moustaches were not easy while war. This lead to the smart, clean and suave military image of men, which continued in the post war years.
  4. Knickers were now being worn, with neutral coloured stockings, held up with garters. 
  5. Jodhpurs were used for riding. This was the influence of the British colony in India. It is a very good example of cross culture influence.
  6. Trench coats was a mjor influence - began to be used as raincoats after the war.
  7. Chesterfield coats became popular for outer wear.
  8. Sweaters that were issued to soldiers later became popular, turtle neck sweaters became rather fashionable.
Men's clothing - Army costume during world war - I

Trench coats became fashionable during the first world war
Children's Fashion

Till the Edwardian age, children dressed up as mini adults. Now they were almost fining their own identity. Their clothing became simpler and less cumbersome.
Their clothing became more practical, girls wore smart skirts in plaids and checks and boys were seen wearing the sailor collared dresses, coats etc. 

I recommend watching - The Sound of Music!! Enjoy!!

Children's clothing during the first world war.



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Costume Textile and Fashion by Toolika Gupta is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 3.0 Unported License.
Based on a work at costumetextileandfashion.blogspot.com.
Permissions beyond the scope of this license may be available at http://costumetextileandfashion.blogspot.com/.
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